Once a wealthy German port and university town called Königsberg, Kaliningrad changed beyond recognition under Soviet control. The enclave is separated from mother Russia by hundreds of miles of Lithuanian and Belarussian soil.
Tourism is slowly developing, as people come to see this fascinating place struggling to survive under capitalism. Amid the austere Soviet architecture, there are still suggestions of a more creative German past. Picturesque Königsberg buildings, such as the cathedral, become even more appealing amid a sea of monotonous concrete. Whilst the region's Baltic cousins have embraced modern European culture with a vengeance, this unique enclave appears hesitant to sever links with its Soviet past.