Zagreb is a fun cosmopolitan capital city, but start in the thousand-year-old upper town, Gornji Grad, for all the highlights. Note the Presidential Palace, defended by colourful guards, and St Mark's Church with its exquisitely tiled roof. Descend in the funicular to the lower town and Ban Josip Jelacic Square, a masterpiece of Austro-Hungarian style.
Snack at one of the kiosks in Dolac market before heading to Mirogoj Cemetery. Death is a serious business and you will be impressed by the ornate tombs and the beautiful surrounding park. Choose from a bewildering selection of cuisine before joining the party in the bars and clubs.