Sampling khachapuri. This quintessential Georgian starter is a thin pie-type of bread filled with mildly salted cheese. There are several waist-expanding varieties and one of our favourites is Ajaruli Khachapuri, which comes from the Ajara region around Batumi. An egg is added to the diamond shaped crust just before serving!
Narikala Fortress sits above the Old Town. Get a good view of it from the botanical gardens below then head for elegant, wide, tree-shaded Rustaveli Avenue lined with shops, cafes and museums. Along the gorge of the Mtkvari River, buildings bathed in summer-long sunshine cling to the high, red cliffs precariously. Join the locals in a relaxing sulphur bath, indulge in a glass of Georgian wine and experience the culture in the Paliashvili Opera House.
Thanks to Georgia's pre-Soviet religious tolerance, Tbilisi is home to an eclectic mix of orthodox churches, mosques and synagogues. You will have a superb view of all these, and more besides, from the battlements of Narikala Fortress, which sits above the Old town.