Taiwan is one of the few destinations in Asia where a family holiday doesn't mean choosing between keeping the adults interested and keeping the children engaged. This 14-day itinerary travels the full length of the island by private car and high-speed rail, from the buzzing capital Taipei in the north to the beaches of Kenting on Taiwan's southern tip, taking in mountain lakes, ancient cities, and hands-on experiences that children will remember.
The activities included are where this trip earn its place as a family holiday. Children make traditional paper by hand at a working factory in central Taiwan, cycle the shores of Sun Moon Lake, a mountain reservoir ringed by forest and indigenous villages, and then explore Jiufen, a hillside old town of narrow alleyways that has barely changed in a century. In Tainan, Taiwan's oldest city, families visit a traditional incense workshop where the craft has been passed down through generations. Yangmingshan National Park, a volcano on Taipei's doorstep, has easy trails through steam vents and hot spring pools that need no selling to a child. The trip ends at Kenting, a national park on Taiwan's southern tip where the mountains meet the sea, and the last day is a free one on the beach. Two nights at each stop throughout, with all transport arranged, means the pace never becomes a source of stress for anyone.

Private transfer from Taoyuan Airport to your hotel in Taipei. Time to check in, recover from the flight, and take a first wander outside to get a feel for the city.

Taipei rewards curiosity. CKS Memorial Hall is one of the most dramatic public spaces in Asia, a vast open plaza where the changing of the guard is precise enough to hold the whole family's attention. Longshan Temple is one of the oldest in the city and still very much in use, thick with incense smoke and the kind of sensory detail that stays with you. The National Palace Museum brings Chinese imperial history to life through extraordinary objects rather than textbooks. The day ends at Taipei 101's observatory deck, followed by Raohe Night Market, where food stalls stretch the full length of a temple street, and everyone gets to choose their own dinner. (B)


A volcano on Taipei's doorstep. The walking trails at Qingtiangang are easy and open, crossing grassland with views across the park that make the effort worthwhile. Xiaoyukeng and Lengshuikeng have steaming fumaroles and outdoor hot spring pools, the kind of geological spectacle that is impossible not to find exciting. The day finishes in Beitou, a hot spring district at the base of the mountain, with a visit to the thermal valley and the beautifully preserved Hot Spring Museum, housed in a Japanese-era bathhouse dating to 1913. (B)

The drive south stops at Rainbow Village in Taichung, where a former soldier painted every surface of his neighbourhood in vivid murals to save it from demolition. The day continues at a traditional hand papermaking mill in Puli, one of only a handful still operating in Taiwan. Families join a guided tour through the full papermaking process and get to make their own sheet by hand using techniques unchanged for centuries. By evening, you arrive at Sun Moon Lake, a mountain reservoir at 762 metres above sea level. The lakeside settlement of Ita Thao, the spiritual home of the indigenous Thao people, is worth an evening wander through its food stalls and waterfront. (B)

A full day on and around the lake. The morning starts at a working tea farm, where you learn how Taiwan's prized oolong is grown, processed, and try blending your own. The afternoon is spent cycling the lakeshore path, one of the most scenic routes in Asia, passing through forest with the water always in view. (B)

The drive south brings you to Tainan, Taiwan's oldest city, founded in the 17th century and the island's capital for nearly 200 years. Its streets carry a different weight than anywhere else on the itinerary. The afternoon takes in Anping Tree House, a former warehouse slowly consumed by the roots of a vast banyan tree, both fascinating and slightly eerie. Confucius Temple, dating to 1665, and the characterful merchant houses of Shennong Street round out the afternoon.

Tainan is considered the cultural heart of Taiwan, and today you get properly into it. The centrepiece is a visit to a traditional incense workshop that has been operating since the late 19th century, where you learn to hand-roll incense using techniques passed down through these streets for generations. The afternoon includes a walk through one of the city's famous tree-tunnel roads, where the canopy closes overhead, and a visit to Taijiang National Park, a coastal wetland on the city's edge and an important stop for migratory birds. (B)

The route to Kaohsiung passes through Meinong, a Hakka township in the foothills where you can make a traditional oil paper umbrella by hand at one of the last workshops in Taiwan still practising the craft. Kaohsiung itself is Taiwan's second city, with a port energy that feels distinct from anywhere else on the trip. The afternoon takes in Pier 2 Art Centre, a converted waterfront warehouse district full of murals and open spaces, before a short ferry crossing to Qijin Island. (B)

Fo Guang Shan is one of the largest Buddhist monastery complexes in Taiwan. A 36-metre bronze Buddha presides over extensive temple grounds, and the scale of it is something you feel rather than just see. The afternoon heads to a pineapple farm in the hills outside the city, where the family picks fresh pineapple straight from the plant, presses their own juice and works through a tasting of local pineapple products. The day ends at Liu He Night Market, Kaohsiung's best, with a well-earned reputation for seafood. (B)

The drive south leads to Kenting, a national park at the very tip of Taiwan where the Taiwan Strait meets the Pacific. The landscape opens up here, drier and more dramatic, with coral reef coastline replacing the forested hills of the north. The journey stops at an award-winning tree-to-bar chocolate maker in Pingtung, whose cacao is grown, fermented and crafted entirely on site. The tour takes the family through the full process from cacao pod to finished bar, with tastings along the way. By evening, you arrive in Kenting, where the main street comes alive with food stalls and a beach town atmosphere that signals the holiday has shifted gear. (B)

A free day. Kenting has clear water, coral close to shore, and some of the best swimming and snorkelling in Taiwan. Watersports are available along the main beach for those who want more. The national park also has walking trails through tropical forest and clifftop paths for anyone who wants to explore beyond the coast. After nearly two weeks of moving, it is exactly the kind of day the whole family needs. (B)

A transfer to Kaohsiung to board the high-speed rail back to Taipei, covering the length of the island in around 90 minutes. One of the most efficient rail networks in Asia, and a good journey for window seats and looking back on everything you have seen. Private transfer to the hotel on arrival for a final night in Taipei. (B)
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