Is Jordan on your bucket list?
If so, follow in the footsteps of our Product and Travel Specialist, Susanne, who has just returned from an enriching week in this breathtaking Middle Eastern gem with her partner, Stephen. Having previously spent time here as a tour leader based in Syria and Jordan, this trip was a nostalgic return for Susanne, revisiting familiar places with fresh perspective.
From floating in the mineral-rich waters of the Dead Sea to stargazing in a remote Wadi Rum desert camp, Susanne's first-hand experience offers the perfect balance of cultural immersion, historical exploration, and desert adventure.
This seven-day Jordan itinerary is based entirely on her personal journey - driven by a private guide, powered by a flexible route, and packed with highlights like the ancient city of Petra (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the Roman Theatre in downtown Amman, the well-preserved, ancient city of Jerash and unforgettable moments like sipping tea with locals in their Bedouin tent.
Whether you're looking to explore Jordan in a single week or are planning a longer trip with added nights at a Dead Sea resort or a remote, Martian-style tent in the middle of the desert, this article captures all the sights in one seamless and richly layered, one-week Jordan itinerary.
Susanne Muskita
Product & Travel Specialist
“It was incredible to return to the Middle East and feel that warm Jordanian hospitality again - there’s truly nothing like it. From floating in the Dead Sea to standing in awe before the Monastery in Petra, every moment felt both humbling and unforgettable."
Flying with Royal Jordanian
Living in the north of the country, it was convenient to fly from Manchester to Amman without having to travel down to London. Royal Jordanian offers three direct flights a week - on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays - making the journey both accessible and efficient. The check-in from Terminal 3 was very straightforward, which made for a smooth start to the trip.
Onboard, the crew were friendly and attentive, and I enjoyed a well-prepared meal that catered nicely to my vegetarian preference - it's clear the airline is making strides in offering more thoughtful options. While there was a lively atmosphere around me with families travelling for Eid, it added to the sense of excitement as we all headed towards the beautiful and historic landscapes of Jordan. Despite a slight delay, I appreciated having that time to relax and mentally prepare for the adventures ahead.
View over Amman and the ancient Roman Theatre
As we touched down, we were warmly greeted by a representative from our local agent in Jordan, who kindly guided us through the immigration process. Their dedicated team rotates to meet arriving guests, adding a genuinely personal touch.
Compared to neighbouring Israel, the immigration experience here was refreshingly straightforward. After a quick passport check, our representative took care of getting our second stamp while we waited for our luggage - making the whole process seamless.
Queen Alia International Airport itself is impressive - completely transformed in 2013 into a spacious, modern terminal inspired by Bedouin architecture, with over 100 distinctive concrete domes celebrating Jordan’s heritage.
Once outside, our representative contacted our driver and escort, Wasfi, who took us on a smooth 35-minute drive to our hotel. Thankfully, with most clients arriving between 10:30 and midnight, traffic was light, making the journey relaxing. And with in-car Wi-Fi as standard, there’s no escaping connectivity - even on the road!
Cosy suite in House Boutique Hotel
Our base in Amman was the charming House Boutique Hotel, where Anton from client services gave us a warm welcome. We quickly arranged our pick-up time with Wasfi for the next morning, and Anton personally escorted us to our room, taking extra care to make sure we were settled and letting us know he’d be nearby in the lobby should we have any questions.
Situated near Circle 2 and adjacent to the Turkish Embassy, the hotel is a beautiful, modern property with 92 suites spread over seven floors, opened in 2014. Our fifth-floor suite was wonderfully comfortable, featuring a kitchen, a sofa, and a choice of king-size or twin beds, with spectacular views to enjoy. Breakfast each morning in the ground floor dining room was varied and plentiful, and a nice blend of Western and Middle Eastern flavours.
One of the many colourful displays of spices in down town Amman
After breakfast, we stepped outside to find Wasfi, our driver and guide, already waiting for us.
Since it was Eid, the roads were unusually quiet in the morning, creating a peaceful start to the day. As the afternoon approached, the city became more animated, with families heading out to visit loved ones.
Our first destination was the ancient Amman Citadel, perched on one of Amman’s highest hills. Wasfi handled the tickets for us, and we had about an hour to explore. While guides are available, we opted to wander freely, taking in the incredible panoramic views over the city and the Roman Amphitheatre. The site is well signposted with informative boards, which made for a fulfilling self-guided experience.
From there, we explored the Old Town. While many shops were closed due to the holiday, there was still a vibrant charm to the area. I picked up some local spices - always one of my favourite travel souvenirs. For lunch, we stopped at the legendary Hashem Restaurant, a beloved local institution famous for serving what many consider the best falafel in Jordan. The flavours were incredible - crispy, warm, and freshly prepared.
As a sweet finale, Wasfi introduced us to knafeh, a traditional Levantine dessert. It was rich and delicious - though I still think the version from Nablus (in Palestine) is hard to beat! But it was a treat nonetheless and a lovely insight into the culinary culture here.
Traditional meal at Hashem Restaurant in down town Amman
After a short break back at the hotel, we set off again for one of the most memorable moments of the trip - dinner with a local family. Manal, her husband, and daughter welcomed us warmly into their apartment, where they regularly host both guests and international students. It was an incredible opportunity to experience Jordanian hospitality firsthand.
Wasfi joined us as well, and the evening felt more like a family gathering than a formal dinner. We began with Turkish coffee and biscuits, followed by a homemade meal that was both delicious and heartwarming. While their son didn’t join us, we learned that both of their children have full-time jobs and still live at home, which is quite typical here. We chatted about everything from travel (they’ve been to Spain, Italy, and the US) to everyday life in Amman.
We ended the evening with tea and sugared almonds, and I felt genuinely touched by the generosity and openness of our hosts. It was a special experience that I’d recommend to anyone wanting to go beyond the usual tourist trail.
Ancient Roman city remains in Jerash
After breakfast, Wasfi picked us up at 9:00 for a day of exploring the northern hills of Jordan. With little traffic on the roads, we reached Jerash in just under an hour. The drive itself offered scenic glimpses of the countryside, with rolling hills and olive groves stretching into the distance.
We parked near the old visitor centre and walked over to the newly built one, where Wasfi kindly took care of the entrance tickets and organised a local guide for us. Our guide, Nader, was fantastic - his fluent English and deep historical knowledge brought the ancient Roman city to life. After an informative hour with him, we had time to explore on our own. I was especially struck by the grandeur of the Colonnaded Street, the expansive Forum, and the beautifully preserved Temple of Artemis.
From Jerash, we made a spontaneous change to our itinerary. Instead of returning to Amman to visit the Jordan Museum, we drove to Ajloun Castle - a site I’d heard about from clients but hadn’t yet seen myself. It turned out to be a worthwhile detour. Perched high above the surrounding valleys, the castle offers sweeping views and a fascinating glimpse into Jordan’s medieval history.
Our final stop of the day was Salt, a town utterly charming, with its well-preserved Ottoman architecture and lively, lived-in feel. It felt like walking through a living museum, and I’m already planning to include it in future cultural tours.
Rainbow Street at night
At 19:00, we headed to Sufra, a lovely restaurant on Rainbow Street, to meet with Jack, the agent’s Managing Director, and Mohammad, who always assists me with our Jordanian enquiries and bookings. It was great to reconnect with Jack, whom I’d last seen at WTM, and to finally meet Mohammad—though he looked a little weary from all the Eid celebrations and family visits! Over a delicious Jordanian dinner, we discussed itinerary updates, new opportunities in Saudi Arabia, and swapped stories from the road.
Jordanian lady creating a mosaic
We left Amman at 09:00 and headed straight to Madaba for a scheduled hotel inspection at 10:00. Afterwards, we made our way to Mount Nebo, a significant pilgrimage site traditionally believed to be where Moses saw the Promised Land. The road leading up the mountain is now beautifully paved - much different from the steep, narrow track I remember from 30 years ago.
Unfortunately, the haze meant we couldn’t glimpse the Golden Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem this time, but the visit was still worthwhile. The small museum on-site displays some fascinating mosaics and archaeological artefacts.
On the way back into Madaba, we stopped at a local artisan shop for a mosaic demonstration. It’s fascinating to watch the process - from stone-cutting to the final design. Alongside the mosaics, you’ll also find rugs, painted ostrich eggs, and jewellery on offer.
Church of St George
Before leaving town, we visited the Church of St George, home to the famous Madaba Map - a sixth-century mosaic depicting the Holy Land. It’s an incredible piece of history, though due to ongoing renovations, our visit was brief.
We then headed to Hikayet Sitti, a cosy and welcoming spot popular with both locals and visitors. The owners – a husband-and-wife team make a real effort to personally greet their guests. Elias made sure we had the best table and Ferial even served the Maqlouba herself - a delicious vegetarian version of Jordan’s national dish, made with rice, vegetables, and traditionally chicken. Before that, we enjoyed a mezze spread of five different dishes. The flavours were fresh and authentic, and we heard that they’re about to publish their first cookbook.
Petra Moon Hotel
We left Madaba at 15:00 and made our way south along the Desert Highway, with a quick photo stop at Shobak Castle. We reached Petra around 18:00.
We stayed at the Petra Moon Hotel, a comfortable 4-star option in Wadi Musa, just a short walk from the Petra Visitor Centre. For those seeking a 5-star experience, the Mövenpick or Petra Moon Luxury Hotel are excellent choices. Another luxury option, the Hyatt Zaman, is beautifully designed and offers incredible views. However, it's not ideal for short stays, as you’ll need a taxi every time you want to visit the site.
My favourite hotel is still the Petra Guesthouse, located right at the gate and home to the Cave Bar - reputedly the oldest bar in the world, set in a 2,000-year-old Nabatean tomb. You can’t get more atmospheric than that.
Petra by Night, lit by candles
After dinner at the hotel, Wasfi returned to take us to the Visitor Centre. He purchased our tickets for Petra by Night, and the gates opened at 20:30. The candlelit walk through the narrow Siq to the Treasury is truly special - about 15 minutes to the Siq entrance, then another 20 through it.
I’ll admit I was a little sceptical at first, worried it might feel too 'touristy' - but it turned out to be magical. The 1,500 candles lighting the Treasury create an ethereal glow, enhanced by a subtle light show. Bedouins shared stories and played live traditional music. The experience brought the site to life in a completely new way.
We retraced our steps afterwards - though for those too tried to walk back through the Siq again, electric golf carts are available for the journey back.
We started early - out the door and walking by 07:00 - and less than 12 hours later, we were back at the Treasury again, having experienced Petra from every angle.
The end of the Siq revealing the Treasury
One of the first things I noticed was the newly laid surface of the Siq. It’s no longer sandy but now paved in a way that blends naturally with the surrounding rock. This change allows electric golf carts (seating up to six people) to transport visitors from the visitor centre to the Treasury - a great option for those who might struggle with the walk. Horses are no longer allowed through the Siq, although a short horse ride from the visitor centre to its entrance is still included in the ticket. Most people, though, choose to walk.
Our first stop was the High Place of Sacrifice, and I recommend doing this early in the day while the trail is still shaded. From the top, you’re treated to a bird’s-eye view of the site - breathtaking and well worth the climb. Instead of descending the same way, we took a more remote path through another wadi, discovering tombs and rock carvings most visitors miss. It was peaceful and atmospheric - a glimpse of Petra’s hidden side.
Valley Floor, Petra
We continued down to the valley floor, passing by landmarks such as the Pharaun Column, Temenos, Qasr al-Bint, and the Great Altar. Even the public restrooms along the way were surprisingly spotless worth noting when spending a full day on foot!
From there, we began the ascent to the Monastery - about 800 rock-cut steps, taking around 30 minutes (or more, depending on your pace and stops). I suggest tackling this in the afternoon, when most of the trail is shaded and the light is perfect for photographs.
As you climb, you’ll find shade, souvenir stalls, and cheerful local Bedouins offering tea, crafts, and the occasional donkey ride. It’s a social trail as much as a physical one.
Monastery, Petra
Standing before the Monastery, I was reminded just how small we really are - this monument is even larger than the Treasury. Nearby, there’s a tea shop built into a cave with simple sandwiches and drinks. The seating looks straight onto the Monastery, so you can sit back, rest, and take it all in. Years ago, I climbed to the top of the structure itself, but that path has since been closed off for safety reasons.
The descent, while easier, can still be tricky due to sandy steps, so we took it slow and then stopped at the Nabatean Restaurant. This used to be a humble Bedouin tent where I’d bring groups years ago - today, it’s a cosy eatery serving simple but satisfying local dishes. I even ran into the owner, Haroun, who somehow still remembered me!
Susanne and other travellers at the Petra cooking experience
We headed back along the Street of Facades and past the Roman Theatre, completely carved from rock, before exiting through the Siq to our hotel.
In the evening, we walked to Petra Kitchen, where Chef Rehan led a hands-on cooking class. There were just six of us, and each participant got an apron, a chef’s hat, and a knife. The menu, neatly written on a whiteboard, included soup, cold and hot mezze, and a traditional main course.
There was a lot of chopping, marinating, and “Yes, Chef!” moments. We ended the night by tasting our own creations - an incredibly fun and interactive way to wrap up a day steeped in Petra’s history and hospitality. At the end, we were handed printed recipes to recreate the magic at home.
'I Love Petra' sign
We left Petra early and as we climbed out of Wadi Musa, we made a quick photo stop at the "I Love Petra" sign. The view was slightly hazy, but we could just make out the golden Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem on the distant horizon - a surreal moment that reminded us how close the region’s ancient and modern stories lie side by side.
Our Desert Camp in the far distance
From there, we joined the Desert Highway, a dramatic and scenic route that runs south toward Aqaba. After about two hours, we turned off for Wadi Rum, and the landscape immediately shifted. The sand deepened to a rich orange-red, and the scenery became so otherworldly it felt like we’d landed on Mars.
A quick photo stop, somewhere in the middle of nowhere
We paused briefly at the Wadi Rum Railway Station to photograph the historic Hejaz Railway train, famously featured in Lawrence of Arabia. Then, a stop at the visitor centre gave us time to explore the small but informative museum and admire the dramatic Seven Pillars of Wisdom - towering rock formations named after T.E. Lawrence’s book.
Wadi Rum: Desert Jeep Tour
We climbed aboard an open-topped jeep and ventured deep into the desert. Our Bedouin driver navigated confidently across the unmarked terrain - just shifting sand and fading tracks. If you’re wearing contact lenses, be warned: the wind and dust can be challenging, so a buff or scarf to cover your face is a smart idea.
We visited a couple of remote camps before looping back via Lawrence’s Spring, a spot that holds a special place in my memory. It’s where I used to camp with my groups years ago - before the desert became home to over 200 camps of varying standards.
After a few desert camp inspections, we were dropped off at the Luxotel office in the small village of Diseh. From there, another jeep took us even deeper into the desert to our camp for the night - secluded, peaceful, and utterly surreal. As we approached, the Wadi Rum camp looked like a Martian outpost, nestled between the red sand dunes and rocky cliffs.
Wadi Rum: Stargazing experience
After dinner, once the sky turned inky black and the stars emerged in full force, we were picked up again by a Bedouin guide and driven to Rum Sky Adventures. Here, a team had set up computerised telescopes and guided us through the stars, planets, and constellations visible overhead. The clarity of the night sky in Wadi Rum is truly exceptional - no light pollution, just endless galaxies.
Wadi Rum UFO Luxotel
Our accommodation for the night was the futuristic Wadi Rum UFO Luxotel, where we stayed in a bubble tent - complete with air conditioning and Wi-Fi, and a private veranda with a hammock. The tent was surprisingly spacious, featuring a large bed, a seating area, and enormous panoramic windows that made you feel as if you were sleeping directly under the stars.
Some of the bubble suites even had transparent roofs, allowing guests to stargaze from the comfort of their beds - an unforgettable way to end the day.
Sunrise over the Wadi Rum UFO Luxotel
We woke early in Wadi Rum to catch the sunrise over the desert, and the view did not disappoint. In the soft morning light, we spotted a hot air balloon gliding silently overhead - what a magical way to see this Martian-like landscape from above. Some guests were already riding camels or heading to distant viewpoints to greet the new day. The desert awakens quickly, and so does the heat - the temperature begins to rise as soon as the sun crests the rocks.
After breakfast, we checked out and were met by another Bedouin guide, Mohammed, who took us on an exhilarating two-hour 4x4 adventure through his backyard - the expansive desert around Diseh, where he grew up. His deep knowledge of the land led us to extraordinary spots: Mushroom Rock, the rock formation known as "The Titanic" and the ancient petroglyphs, some believed to be over 12,000 years old!
The scenery was breathtaking, constantly shifting from wide open sands to narrow canyons, always framed by massive rust-coloured cliffs. We could have spent hours more exploring - but the Dead Sea was calling.
The motorised Camel that took us all over Jordan
We reunited with Wasfi at the Luxotel office, and instead of taking the more direct route to the Dead Sea, he took us on a scenic journey that went all the way down the Desert Highway to Aqaba (Jordan's only port and Red Sea Resort), and then followed the entire length of the Dead Sea from south to north. On our left was Jordan; across the salty water to the west, Israel and Palestine.
Seeing roads and buildings on the other side - so close yet worlds apart - was a powerful reminder of how deeply the region is shaped by conflict. Even from this peaceful vantage point, you could feel the weight of it. War in a neighbouring country causes not just destruction, but despair, disconnection, and helplessness.
Dead Sea, Jordan
By the time we arrived at our final stop, I still had two hotel inspections to complete - though I was already picturing myself in the water. Eventually, I did get that moment of stillness: floating effortlessly in the Dead Sea, letting the week settle into my bones.
In hindsight, we should have stayed here at least two nights. After days of travel, discovery, and walking, this place offered a complete contrast to what's happening across the Dead Sea.
The Kempinski Hotel
Our final night was spent at the Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa, a luxurious beachfront resort perched on the northern edge of the sea. With 285 ensuite rooms, each with a balcony or terrace, it feels like a laid-back seaside escape in the Mediterranean. I always book sea view rooms for clients here, and after seeing the view from our balcony, I remembered why.
Though more affordable than the nearby Mövenpick or Kempinski, the Holiday Inn Resort still delivers top-tier comfort. It has a private beach and direct access to the Dead Sea.
We had dinner at Spectrum, one of the hotel’s seven restaurants, where a varied international buffet was served using locally sourced produce from the Jordan Valley - fittingly nicknamed the food basket of the Middle East.
Floating in the Dead Sea
Wasfi was ready and waiting at 06:30 for our drive to Amman airport—about 50 minutes from the Dead Sea. Since we’d missed breakfast, the hotel thoughtfully prepared a takeaway box. As we left, the sun rose behind the mountains in soft hues of pink and orange. It was a beautiful farewell… though we couldn’t help but wish for just one more slow morning by the pool or another float in the Dead Sea. Next time.
Saying goodbye to Wasfi was harder than expected. Over the week, he became more than a driver—he was our fixer, guide, storyteller, and friend. He proudly showed us a photo of himself with Hollywood actress Michelle Monaghan, who he drove during a film shoot in Jordan a few years ago. His enthusiasm, reliability, and signature "OMG!" became running themes of our journey. We arrived as clients; we left with a friend.
View of Amman City
At Queen Alia International Airport, we were met by Mohammed, who swiftly checked us in at the Royal Jordanian Airlines business desk and even secured us an extra seat at no cost.
Our binoculars triggered a bag check - something we always advise clients about - but the officer was kind and apologetic. Inside the terminal, we had time for a quiet coffee before boarding. The flight wasn’t full, and though there was no built-in entertainment, the Sky Connect app offered streaming options.
As we took off, I reflected on a packed yet perfect week. Jordan’s rich landscapes, flavours, and stories left a lasting impression. Returning to the Middle East felt like coming home - its hospitality, or Karam, unmatched. Even modern developments felt thoughtful, honouring the past while embracing a sustainable, respectful future.
I left feeling full - in spirit, in heart, and with a renewed appreciation for this remarkable country. Until next time, when we'll be checking out the walking trails of Jordan!
Looking to visit Jordan and experience its incredible natural beauty and striking culture-rich history first-hand? From Wadi Rum tours to road trips through the ancient city centre and stays traditional Bedouin camps, take your Jordan trip to the next level with our top Jordan escapes:
From floating in the Dead Sea - the lowest point at sea level - to exploring the ancient archaeological city of Petra by candlelight, and stargazing under absolutely gorgeous skies in the Wadi Rum desert, we can craft the perfect 7-day Jordan itinerary that perfectly captures the essence of a one week itinerary in Jordan. Whether you’re looking for guided Jordan tours, a luxury holiday to Jordan with lovely facilities, or a fully tailor-made Jordan tour including visits to the Jordan Pass attractions, we’re here to help create your perfect escape.
Browse our range of Jordan holidays or speak to one of our Travel Specialists to start planning your holiday to this beautiful Middle East destination today.